Day 1
Early flight from Birmingham airport. Handy tip 1- go in plenty of time. We thought we had, and were dipping about in duty free, as you do, when I heard the final call for our flight. We dashed off only to see a queue of several hundred people waiting to board buses to their flights. If it hadn't been for an enterprising assistant looking for stragglers, we would have missed the flight! He rushed us straight to the front of the queue (sincere apologies to those who had waited forever in that queue, it wasn't intentional, honest…). Uneventful flight, picked up be private transfer, who promptly delivered us to the hotel. The wrong hotel. (Similar name. I checked, he insisted, we believed him). Handy tip 2- don't let the taxi driver go until you have checked that you are in the right place. We paid for a taxi to go to the right hotel (claiming that back!). This hotel has a “problem with our room” and promptly shuttled us to another on the outskirts of the city. Handy tip 3- have all phone numbers ready to contact travel company. We were tired, hot and bemused and so just went with it. We explored the area but weren't very happy, decided to try to sort it the next day but sent an email to the travel company.
Pompeii: following the advice of friends we packed lots of water and a brolly for shade. Handy tip 4- go on the train. It's about half an hour and €5 return from Naples, so stuff the expensive trips. It was €13 entry so we saved loads of money. HT 5- go early…the 10 am train was packed and there was a HUGE QUEUE to get into Pompeii!!! It went down pretty quickly but it was still a surprise. You can pay more for a guided tour and get in straight away but we decided to wait. HT 6- be prepared. It's hilly and rough underfoot, fascinating and HUGE! Prams and high heels are a no no. There is a café and toilets in the grounds but these got very busy. Lots of stalls outside for food, drink and souvenirs. Caught the train back but again very busy with a very packed and hot train.
Day 3- Sorento.
We caught the 8.20 am train which was much better and we even got seats. Again we abandoned the more expensive organised trips in favour of the train, at €3.60 each, each way.It's about an hour and a quarter on the train straight into Sorento and it's the same line as the one to Pompeii. Sorento is picturesque and was calm and quiet in the morning but soon got busy. It is built on the top of the cliffs and you have to embark upon an epic set of steps and walkways to go down to the beaches and port, or catch the lift, which costs € 1 each. We didn't like the beach arrangements as these were small and “owned” by assorted businesses who charged entry, including sunbeds and parasols. Lots of jetties and piers had been built for the same purposes. One tiny, puny public beach was filled with locals and one emptier one where you weren't allowed to swim in the sea.In the end we didn't bother. Walked back up to the top, caught the sightseeing tour train(€6 each). Returned to Naples on the train as before although we had to ask which platform as its not clear. HT -7 keep your feet off the seats, one woman got told off by the driver! (No, it wasn't me..)
Day 4- Capri.
Caught a taxi to the harbour and paid €20 for a one way trip to Capri. There are slow ferries but we opted for the fast travel, not much difference in price. I had taken motion sickness tablets before after reading horror stories online but the hubby didn't and he was fine. We disembarked upon arrival and went to explore the little harbour. The main town is way above sea level and you can catch the bus or a taxi. Or you can walk. Which we did. Up a very steep hill and lots of steps. For half an hour. It was baking hot. HT 8 - wear your comfy shoes again and take plenty of water. Capri town is delightful but heaving with tourists. Make sure y explore every nook and cranny, as we were delighted to come across what looked like Millionaire’s Row filled with the likes of Gucci, Prada and D &G. Didn't go in, but felt very posh even walking past! Eventually it became too hot and busy for us, even after a quiet lunch in a side street restaurant, but the walk back down was quicker. HT 9- look for the Ticket offices and find the right one. We wanted to return to Sorento but got in the Naples queue by accident. C’est la vie. Jumped round to the right queue, caught the ferry and listened to a man chatting up some Americans, very loudly, all the way there. In Sorento we paid €1 to go in the lift back to the town, and later caught the train again back to Naples.
Day 5- Naples on foot
Our flight was late in the evening and we had all day to explore. Luggage left in reception, we set off to walk to the harbour. Watched the cruise ships for a while, then set off in search of the Via Toledo, the main shopping area. Found the Galleria Umberto, which is worth a look, then strolled the shops. HT 10- use your brolly again, and go window shopping in the stores as you go. Air conditioning is a wonderful invention! Keep walking and go u and down the little side streets, where you will find a plethora of cottage industry shops with amazing displays of beautiful hand made goods. Scrumptious. Have I mentioned how hot it was? See above advice!
My honest opinion of Naples the city: huge municipal area, lots of traffic with seemingly absolutely no rules. Horns beeping constantly. Closely packed buildings on many streets, as is the Italian way, with all the cliches of shutters, verandas and the obligatory washing lines. Apart from in the main shopping areas and ports, we were shocked by the amount of graffiti, even on some of the beautiful churches an monuments. On the outskirts, the bin men obviously hadn't been for a while and a great deal of rubbish was piled up in the streets. Lots of shopping everywhere, although on the outskirts it was smaller independent shops, markets and street sellers, and a new looking, vibrant, modern and easy to navigate train station about 20 minutes from the centre. It was hot, noisy and mad. And extremely interesting.
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